Inside South Korea’s Rise as a Global Beauty Powerhouse!
This rebroadcast originally aired on July 14, 2023.
Welcome to the mesmerizing world of South Korean beauty—where 10-step skincare routines and snail mucus-infused products reign supreme!
“Picture the long, luxurious hair, the porcelain-like skin, and those big, bright eyes,” says beauty expert Elise Hu. “And let’s not forget the coveted feminine jawline, affectionately dubbed the V-line in Korea.”
The allure of K-beauty has propelled South Korea to become the world’s third-largest cosmetics exporter, captivating consumers across the globe.
Yet, the pursuit of these beauty ideals often comes with a steep price—socially, emotionally, and physically. The K-beauty phenomenon is no exception.
“The aesthetic labor we invest in our bodies is not just work; it’s also a financial commitment,” Hu points out.
Today, we delve deep into On Point: the K-beauty industry, consumerism, and the relentless chase for perfection.
Featured Guests
Elise Hu, NPR correspondent and host-at-large. Author of the enlightening new book “Flawless: Lessons in Looks and Culture from the K-Beauty Capital.”
Michelle Cho, assistant professor of East Asian Popular Cultures at the University of Toronto.
Also Featuring
Sue Greene and Herra Namhie, co-founders of L.A.-based online K-beauty store Ohlolly.
Transcript Highlights
Part I
MEGHNA CHAKRABARTI: From Paris to New York, Los Angeles, and now Seoul—welcome to the epicenter of beauty innovation: South Korea.
KRISTINA ARANILLA: This essence features snail secretion filtrate, yes, snail slime, renowned for its brightening and hydrating properties!
That’s Kristina Aranilla, part of a vibrant community of YouTubers dedicated to the enchanting world of K-beauty.
And here’s Charlotte Cho sharing her coveted 10-step Korean skincare routine.
CHARLOTTE CHO: After cleansing, I use an exfoliator to buff away dead skin cells; currently, I’m loving the Neogen bio peel, especially the green tea version.
CHAKRABARTI: There are oil cleansers, toners, essences, serums, moisturizers, and ampoules—oh my!
In a Harper’s Bazaar video, K-pop star Somi shows off a vibrant yellow face mask.
SOMI: Look at this! It’s yellow, so I’m going to look like a giant yolk, but who cares?
CHAKRABARTI: She even uses a quirky device called a neckline slimmer!
SOMI: You know how double chins can sneak up on you? Just place this device here and give it a nod!
This is On Point. I’m Meghna Chakrabarti. The beauty products flooding the market reflect South Korea’s status as a global cosmetics giant. But within Korea, the beauty industry also sets daunting standards for weight and body transformation through plastic surgery.
But how did South Korea emerge as a powerhouse in the global beauty scene? What does this mean for our perceptions of beauty, and what implications does it hold for Korean women today? Elise Hu, with her experience as an NPR correspondent and Seoul Bureau chief, has explored these questions in depth.
Her new book, “Flawless: Lessons in Looks and Culture from the K-Beauty Capital.” reveals the intricacies of this remarkable industry.
Elise, we’re excited to have you on On Point.
ELISE HU: Thank you, Meghna! I’m thrilled to be here.
CHAKRABARTI: Your experiences in Seoul inspired your book. Walking through the bustling streets, how did you perceive Korea’s beauty standards?
HU: It was electrifying! Skyscrapers reaching for the clouds, a digital landscape alive with vibrant advertising—much of it showcasing women’s bodies and products promising to enhance them. There was a notable shift from before-and-after images to a more regulated approach these days.
CHAKRABARTI: And what was the aspirational look that you encountered?
HU: The prototype features luminescent, glass-like skin, a delicate V-shaped jaw, big, expressive eyes, and long, dark hair paired with a slender waist. The pressure to conform to this standard is intense.
CHAKRABARTI: Your book highlights a striking statistic about the body mass index of young women in South Korea. Can you elaborate?
HU: Absolutely. South Korean women aged 18-30 are the only demographic in the world that has seen a decrease in weight since 2000. Around the same time, South Korea rose as a cultural soft power, exporting K-pop and film while placing immense pressure on domestic beauty standards.
CHAKRABARTI: That’s astonishing! You also discuss how clothing sizes reflect these pressures.
HU: Yes, it was an eye-opening experience. The prevalent “free size” is actually equivalent to a U.S. size two. I felt like I stepped back in time, facing a culture steeped in fatphobia. At a size eight, I was considered plus-sized! Shopping was quite the challenge.
CHAKRABARTI: How did shopkeepers respond to your size?
HU: They would often make an “X” with their arms, signaling, “No, we don’t have anything for you!”
CHAKRABARTI: (LAUGHS) That’s harsh!
HU: (LAUGHS) It was not very encouraging!
CHAKRABARTI: Can you share a story about someone striving to meet these beauty standards?
HU: One compelling example is Groomin’, a male YouTuber who spends three hours each morning on his skincare and beauty regimen. He embodies how the pressure to conform now extends to men, highlighting the pervasive nature of beauty standards.
CHAKRABARTI: As this pressure mounts, it’s crucial to understand the long-lasting impact on Korean women.
HU: Indeed. This summer has already seen significant labor actions, and echoing that sentiment was the “Escape the Corset” movement, where around 300,000 women chose to shun beauty norms, crushing makeup compacts and embracing their natural selves.
CHAKRABARTI: Today, we’re engaging with Elise Hu, NPR correspondent and author of “Flawless.” We’re examining the rise of South Korea’s beauty industry and its implications—especially for women. Stay tuned for more insights after the break.
Part II
CHAKRABARTI: As we’ve explored, South Korea is now the third-largest exporter of cosmetics globally, trailing only behind the United States and France. Entrepreneurs Sue Greene and Herra Namhie are part of this K-beauty boom. They launched Ohlolly, an online store based in Los Angeles that specializes in Korean skincare.
So, we connected with them at the CosmoProf beauty trade show in Las Vegas.
We just collected a ton of samples to take back home. Our faces are going to be a bit irritated, but we can’t wait to try everything!
CHAKRABARTI: Ohlolly was founded in 2016, and Sue and Herra say their growth has been remarkable.
About six or seven years ago, K-beauty really exploded.
Yeah, we’ve seen growth rates of 300 to 400% each year!
CHAKRABARTI: The sisters attribute their success to the power of social media in bringing Korean beauty products to the forefront, with influencers showcasing their multi-step routines.
SUE: The ingredients are fascinating! Take snail mucin, for instance. It’s naturally high in hyaluronic acid—fantastic for your skin!
CHAKRABARTI: The Ohlolly store features around 40 Korean brands, with Sue and Herra personally testing every product before they make it available to customers. Sue is optimistic that their curated selection will help differentiate them in a crowded market.
SUE: We’re so thankful for the continued growth!
HERRA: Absolutely! People are increasingly recognizing the benefits of skincare and self-care, and it’s been wonderful to witness.
CHAKRABARTI: That’s Sue Greene and Herra Namhie, co-founders of Ohlolly. Elise, let’s discuss a point they raised. They mentioned the perception of K-beauty as positive self-care. Is that sentiment shared in Korea?
HU: In certain circles, yes. The paradox of beauty is intriguing. It can serve as a means of self-expression and nurture, yet also become a hamster wheel of industrial beauty standards that detracts from our essence.
CHAKRABARTI: This brings to mind your earlier mention of freckles—something you didn’t realize was considered a flaw until you were exposed to ways to ‘fix’ them.
HU: Exactly! It’s interesting how the existence of solutions can amplify the perception that something naturally occurring in us needs alteration.
CHAKRABARTI: One of the striking aspects of your book is how deeply South Korean women engage in the pursuit of K-beauty standards. Alongside products and procedures, there’s also a significant prevalence of cosmetic surgery at young ages. What drives this economic rationale?
HU: In South Korea, appearance is heavily correlated with professional and personal prospects. It’s common practice to submit headshots with resumes, and parents even encourage cosmetic surgery to improve job opportunities. The intense competition places immense pressure on women to “work hard” on their looks.
CHAKRABARTI: Did women express feelings of risk associated with not conforming?
HU: Absolutely. Many described fears of losing jobs, facing bullying, or even being excluded from family gatherings if they didn’t adhere to these beauty norms. They yearn for a reality where they could simply be loved for who they are, rather than what they look like.
CHAKRABARTI: Your book eloquently highlights that physical appearance has become intertwined with self-worth globally. We’re all striving for similar standards, but the pressure can be particularly pronounced in South Korea.
Now, let’s bring in Michelle Cho, assistant professor of East Asian Popular Cultures at the University of Toronto, who joins us from Seoul. Michelle, welcome!
MICHELLE CHO: Thank you for having me!
CHAKRABARTI: You previously touched on South Korea’s strategic efforts to diversify its economy post-Asian financial crisis. Can you elaborate on how culture became a form of economic strength?
CHO: Absolutely! The lessons from the financial crisis highlighted the need for globalization and finding global markets for Korean products. As a small country, leveraging cultural exports became a viable strategy for economic resilience.
CHAKRABARTI: Interesting! The term K-beauty has become a staple in North America. How did it gain traction outside of Korea?
CHO: The K-prefix signifies a cultural brand that appeals to international audiences. In Korea, beauty products are simply referred to as cosmetics.
CHAKRABARTI: Elise, feel free to jump in anytime. This aligns with so much of what your book discusses.
HU: Absolutely! Michelle’s insights are invaluable. K-beauty has now surpassed smartphone exports, marking its significance in the global economy.
CHAKRABARTI: That’s remarkable! Michelle, can you shed light on the relationship between cultural producers and the Korean government’s Ministry of Culture?
CHO: Certainly! The Ministry actively supports cultural producers in finding international markets for their products. This approach isn’t unique to South Korea, as many countries recognize the value of cultural export.
CHAKRABARTI: Elise, what makes South Korean cultural producers so effective?
HU: South Korea’s familiarity with global culture, thanks to its history of consuming diverse content, allows for a unique blend of genres that resonate on an international scale. The early adoption of technology also plays a significant role.
CHAKRABARTI: Thank you, Michelle Cho, for joining us today from Seoul. Your insights have been enlightening!
CHO: Thank you! It’s been an engaging discussion.
CHAKRABARTI: Elise, hang tight as we continue to explore more of your eye-opening observations after the break.
Part III
CHAKRABARTI: Let’s listen to some captivating voices from YouTube that illustrate how K-beauty is reaching new audiences.
CRYSTAL LEE: Today, I’ll guide you through my nighttime skincare routine to achieve that glass skin look—no filter needed!
SOMI: In Korean, we say Gwalsa—what you might know as Gua Sha!
HAILEY BIEBER: If I’m not getting into bed looking like a glazed donut, I must be doing something wrong!
CHAKRABARTI: Listening to these voices, it’s clear that the U.S. has long been a pioneer in promoting unattainable beauty standards. Should we reevaluate our judgments of Korea’s beauty culture?
HU: Absolutely! What we’re seeing is a global phenomenon, not just confined to South Korea. The obsession with beauty standards is a shared narrative worldwide.
CHAKRABARTI: It’s fascinating how advances in technology can amplify these pressures. Your observations really paint a picture of where we’re headed as a society.
HU: Exactly. South Korea serves as a glimpse into our near future, where digital interactions and industry standards shape our perceptions of beauty.
CHAKRABARTI: The plastic surgery market in South Korea is incredibly advanced, often leading to significant societal shifts. Can you tell us more about its landscape?
HU: South Korea boasts the highest number of plastic surgeons per capita globally. Cosmetic surgery has become so normalized that it’s common to receive it as a graduation gift. The industry caters to various demands, with men increasingly seeking procedures once solely aimed at women.
CHAKRABARTI: It’s shocking to think of the lengths people will go to for these beauty ideals.
HU: Yes, and as societal standards evolve, so do the procedures. Everything from jawline shaping to Botox injections for a longer neck has become mainstream.
CHAKRABARTI: Your book challenges presumptions about beauty, especially regarding Western ideals. Can you elaborate on that?
HU: The notion that Asian cultures are merely chasing Western beauty standards is flawed. The values surrounding beauty in Asia have deep historical roots that predate Western influences.
CHAKRABARTI: Your insights remind us that beauty standards are often steeped in class, wealth, and cultural history.
HU: Precisely! Beauty has historically served as a reflection of class status, and the pursuit of these standards can create a cycle of anxiety and unattainable expectations.
CHAKRABARTI: Your book also highlights moments of self-expression through beauty, where women have found ways to challenge societal norms.
HU: Right! Throughout history, certain archetypes, like the modern girl, have embraced beauty as a form of rebellion against traditional expectations. The “Escape the Corset” movement is a prime example of women reclaiming their identities.
CHAKRABARTI: It’s a multifaceted topic, filled with contradictions and complexities. As we wrap up, it’s clear that the quest for beauty—while often exhausting—can also be a source of empowerment.
HU: Absolutely! The key is to ask ourselves if our choices are authentically driven by our desires or influenced by external pressures. This is the crux of navigating beauty in our modern world.
